Iceland is a stunningly beautiful place if you enjoy strange and desolate landscapes Because it is so close to the Arctic Circle, the amount of daylight varies dramatically by season The sun sets briefly each night in June, but it doesn't get fully dark before it comes back up again In the March and September equinoxes, days and nights are of about equal length, as elsewhere in the world If you go in December, it's almost 20 hours of gloom and darkness Summer is definitely the best time to go, and even then the tourist traffic is still mild The midnight sun is a beautiful sight and one definitely not to be missed It is easy to lose track of time when the sun is still high in the sky at 11PM Early or late winter, however, can be surprisingly good times to visit In late January, daylight is from about 10AM to 5PM, prices are lower than in the high season, and the snow-blanketed landscape is eerily beautiful Some sites are, however, inaccessible in the winter
Iceland was settled by Nordic and Celtic people in the 9th century AD - tradition says that the first permanent settler was Ingólfur Arnarson, a Norwegian Viking who made his home where Reykjavik now stands The Icelanders still basically speak the language of the Vikings Iceland has received a great number of immigrants over the last 10 years In the last 5 years the population of immigrants has doubled Most of these people from Eastern Europe and South East Asia come for employment Immigrants in Iceland are now well over 10% of the population, giving Iceland a larger proportion of immigration than Norway, Sweden etc Icelanders also continue to use the old Norse patronymic system, which was formerly in use in Norway, Denmark, Sweden and the Faroe Islands well into the 19th century, until their governments decided that their people should adopt a surname
Despite its name, Iceland has surprisingly mild winters for a country at that latitude owing to the warming effect of the Atlantic Gulf Stream, especially when put into comparison with the Russian one Iceland enjoys a maritime temperate climate and the winters are often compared with those of New England though the winds in winter can be bitter However the rapidly changing weather has given rise to the local saying: 'If you don't like the weather, wait fifteen minutes!' It's the kind of place where it's not unusual to get rained on and sunburnt at the same time - some Icelandic people also believe that if the winter is hard and long then the summer will be good and warm The summers are usually cooler and more temperate than elsewhere at the same latitude the effect of the ocean again and 20 to 25°C is considered quite warm
The official language of Iceland is Icelandic íslenska, which remains very similar to, although not quite the same as 13th-century Norse Icelandic writing uses the Latin alphabet, but with two characters long ago lost from English: eth Ð, ð, pronounced like the voiced th of "them", and thorn Þ, þ, pronounced like the unvoiced th of "thick" Materials in English often substitute "dh" and "th" respectively, so eg Fjörður is written Fjordhur and þingvellir is written Thingvellir Loanwords are shunned, and new words are regularly made for concepts like computers, known as tölva "number-prophetess" Speakers of Scandinavian languages like Danish, Norwegian, Swedish or Faroese will be able to figure out many written Icelandic words, but are unlikely to understand the spoken language
Most people there can speak and understand English and Danish these are taught in elementary school, other Scandinavian languages, basic German, some Spanish, and some French Icelandic college students choose a "third language" to study, usually Spanish, German, French, or Italian Many students can also opt to study a fourth language Even though the majority of Icelanders are fluent in English, English-speaking visitors to the country should take the time to learn "please" and "thank you" in Icelandic for their trip
Icelanders use the comma instead of the decimal sign for integers, ie 12,000 means 12, not twelve thousand, whereas 12 000 or 12000 means twelve thousand Icelanders use both the 24 and 12 hour system, speaking the 12 hour system and using the 24 hour system for writing Icelanders do not use PM/AM to indicate morning and afternoon In Icelandic, "half ten" "hálf tíu" means half past nine 9:30 When speaking to a person not fluent in English it is best not use this form to avoid misunderstanding Dates can be seen abbreviated in a number of ways, but the order is always DAY-MONTH-YEAR; 12708, 120708, or 120708 is equivalent to July 12, 2008 Monday is considered the first day of the week, while Sunday is the last Icelandic calendars also indicate the number of the week 1 through 52
Iceland uses the metric system only There is limited knowledge of Imperial or US measurements
In Iceland there is no concept of a ground floor as in the UK Instead, the entrance level of a building is called the first floor "Jarð hæð", like in the US Levels are then counted 1, 2, 3 etc
Consult the Icelandic phrasebook for more information
A bus 20 from the Main Bus Station in Reykjavík takes 40 minutes and costs 5500 ISK, including admission to the Blue Lagoon They have a fantastic system in place at the Blue Lagoon When you pay your entry you can rent swimsuits and towels You are given a bracelet with chip technology that you use to operate the lockers in the changing rooms, and also records the amount of anything you wish to buy while you are there - lunch, drink, souvenir, disposable camera - and when you turn in the bracelet as you leave you then pay for the day's fun You could easily spend an entire afternoon, or this makes a great stop on the way to or from the airport
For an out of the way drive rent a car and travel along the southern part of the ring road to the town of Vík with its magnificent black sand beaches, rock outcroppings, glaciers, and lava fields
South-central Iceland, easily accessible by car or tour from Reykjavík, has a number of sights;
The rest of Iceland also has amazing sights;
The local currency is the Icelandic króna ISK, and its value collapsed quite dramatically during the 2008 economic crisis As of May 2010, it trades at around 1 EUR = 160 ISK This has also made local prices more affordable for the visitor, although the prices of imported goods have risen rapidly
You will get a better rate of exchange if you buy and sell your króna in Iceland itself Just about every establishment in Iceland will accept a credit card, including taxis, gas stations, souvenir stands, and even the most remote guest house, so it is not necessary to carry large amounts of Icelandic currency However, due to the currency's instability some credit cards are still wary of króna transactions, so check with your bank before you go and don't rely entirely on plastic
Following the 2008 economic crisis, foreign trading in the króna has been restricted, so you may struggle to get króna notes in your home country As at March 2009 we found the only method was to find old stock at Bureaux de Change which carried it in stock, such as Marks & Spencer This may have to be ordered in about a week in advance though
Getting to Iceland can be done very cheaply: Icelandair and Iceland Express both offer many excellent fares and promotions However, as soon as one steps off the plane the situation changes quite drastically - prices in Iceland can be vastly higher than in other parts of the world, particularly for items such as food and alcohol The difference in prices between Iceland and the rest of Northern Europe is much less; petrol is cheaper, for example
Useful discount card schemes exist for tourists, the two most significant being Norden Voyager Card25, operated by the Norden Association of Iceland, and Reykjavik City Card, operated by the City of Reykjavik
When shopping for food or other necessities, look for Bónus or Krónan shops, as they offer considerably lower prices than the others This is at the expense of quality, of course
Expect to spend around 600 to 800ISK on a beer or a glass of wine, 2500ISK on a pizza for one person, or 270 ISK on a city bus ride
Cigarettes cost around 850 ISK for a packet of 20 Be aware that the law in Iceland states that cigarettes must not be visible in shops, however most gas stations, supermarkets and newsagents sell them
Typical Icelandic products that make good souvenirs include:
Icelandic cuisine has changed a lot in the last few decades from involving mainly lamb or fish in some form or other, as the popularity of other types of food has increased A vegetarian diet is more tricky to maintain but there are several vegetarian restaurants in Reykjavík and vegetarian dishes widely available at other restaurants
Distinctively Icelandic foods include:
Iceland is famous for its whale meat, being one of the few places in the world where it is possible to eat Minke whale Whilst many westerners may have strong feelings about the morality of the hunting and eating of whale, it is advisable to read up on both sides of the arguments before making your mind up Whaling has long been a tradition of Icelanders and is a proud part of their heritage, so do not rush to judge Most restaurants that cater to tourists will sell whale meat, and if you are feeling a little more adventurous some places will serve grated puffin with it if you ask
During the Þorri season late January-Early February many Icelanders enjoy Þorramatur, a selection of traditional Icelandic cuisine which usually contain the following: hákarl putrefied shark cubes, Sviðasulta head cheese made from svið, Lundabaggi Sheep's fat and hrútspungar pickled ram's testicles Þorramatur is usually served at gatherings known as Þorrablót If you find yourself invited to a Þorrablót do not be afraid to politely refuse some of the more unpalatable delicacies, as many Icelanders chose to do so as well Don't worry about going hungry, though, as many of the more "normal" foods mentioned above are almost always available too If uncertain which is which, do not be afraid to ask the caterers for assistance
A similar event to Þorrablót is Þorláksmessa, celebrated on 23 December each year During this day you might find yourself invited to skötuveislur where cured skate is served As with Þorrablót, you can politely refuse to partake in the skate other type of fish is usually served alongside it for the less adventurous A word of warning though, the pungent smell that accompanies the cooking of cured skate is very strong and sticks to hair and clothing very easily Do not wear formal expensive clothing at these gatherings, especially not clothing you intend to wear during Christmas
Any Icelanders' first choice of fast food is usually the pylsa or hot dog It is usually served with a choice of fried onions, fresh onions, ketchup, mustard and remoulade It is cheap compared with other fast food staples at around 200 kr, and is sold in every one of the small convenience stores/eateries/video rentals/sweet shops that litter Icelandic towns
Food prices are particularly high in Iceland - the following sample prices were accurate as of summer 2008:
Tap water is safe to drink in Iceland and it is one of the countries with cleanest water in the world Coffee is easy to find and is comparable to what is found throughout Europe Juices are generally imported and made from concentrate
Alcoholic drinks are very expensive compared to the UK and USA - as an example, half litre of Viking beer in a bar will cost approximately ISK 600 Liquor can be purchased at licensed bars, restaurants, or VinBud 28, the state monopoly The local Icelandic drinks such as Brennivín "Black death" contain a fairly high alcohol content, so pace yourself while at the bars
The local beer brands are:
Visitors arriving by air should note that there is a duty free store for arriving passengers where they can buy cheap alcohol at least cheap compared to Iceland To find the duty free store just follow the Icelanders No Icelander in their right mind will pass the duty free store upon arrival! Be sure to not exceed the allowance which is 1L strong alcohol and 1L light wine less than 22% or 1L strong and 6L of beer The strong alcohol can be exchanged for either 1L light wine or 6L beer
Drinking age in Iceland is 20 for all alcoholic beverages
If you're visiting in summertime you won't regret bringing an eye mask with you During the height of summer there is no actual darkness and in the north, the sun might just dip for a few minutes below the horizon
The hotels are usually fairly basic around the island but you can usually get a room even in August just by phoning them up and reserving it before you get there They are very clean and well maintained, light and airy with nothing at all that could even remotely be considered 'dingy' They are expensive though Fosshotels 33 is a chain of tourist class hotels The chain focuses on friendlier atmosphere Fosshotels are situated all around Iceland, close to the island's most treasured nature spots Icelandair Hotels 34 which include the Edda 35 summer hotels and the Icelandair hotels Icelandair Hotels are upscale, Scandinavian style hotels located in most major cities of Iceland Most notable is the Nordica on the outskirts of downtown Reykjavík
Guesthouses are between hotels and hostels in prices and services At some times if travelling in groups the guesthouses can be cheaper than the hostels Guesthouses will usually have more space than a hostel with a shared bathroom that is cleaner and less crowded
The members are farmers who offer accommodation to travellers in their homes, guesthouses, country-hotels and cottages The association was founded in 1980 and from 1990 Icelandic Farm Holidays has been a fully licensed Tour operator and a Travel agent The accommodation is diverse; made up beds in four different categories, with or without private bathroom, sleeping bag accommodation, cottages and camping Some of the farms offer also various recreation; horse riding, fishing, hunting, sailing, swimming, glacier tours, golf, etc
Iceland has many hostels throughout the entire country They can be found on Hostelling International Iceland 36
If you're travelling on a budget, camping is your best bet There are sites located throughout the country, especially at places you'd want to visit They range from fully-equipped hot showers, washing machines, cooking facilities to farmers' fields with a cold-water tap Expect to pay 500-1000 Kr per person per night If you intend to camp in Iceland you must be prepared for the cold, 3 season sleeping bags are essential and an inner, I would also highly recommend thick pyjamas and a warm hat! A bedding roll is also useful as you may end up sleeping on very rough groundand that's just not very comfortable at all! Don't wait until last minute to find a place to camp Campers and mobile homes have become immensely popular among Icelanders and they take up a lot of space You could arrive at a large camping ground that's so filled up with campers and mobile homes that you'll have no place to pitch your tent
Trekkers will need to use some of the mountain huts, either government or privately-run These range from dormitory accommodation to fully-staffed facilities Booking ahead is likely to be necessary at popular times of year and they may only be accessible in summertime
Don't bother attempting to sleep in the Keflavík Airport overnight It's far better to find a hotel in Keflavík or Reykjavík before arrival
Unemployment in Iceland is rising and the wages are crashing, right now Iceland is not a place to come in hopes of finding work Work permits are required for citizens of most countries The exceptions are citizens of the Nordic Countries Greenland, Faroe Islands, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Åland Islands, Finland and EU/EEA countries As of May 1, 2006 there are no restrictions on the latest entrants into the EU
Work permits can be very difficult to get if you do not come from any of the aforementioned countries, as Iceland has a relatively strict immigration policy
Beware of offers for contracted work in Iceland Your wage levels may be lower than average and your rights may be affected Iceland is a highly unionized society with over 90% of the workforce in labour unions
A great resource is the Directorate of Labour 37 website
| Meal in inexpensive restaurant | 0.93 ISK |
| 3-course meal in restaurant (for 2) | 10.23 ISK |
| McDonalds meal | 0.96 ISK |
| Local beer (0.5 draft) | 861.58 ISK |
| Foreign beer (0.33 bottle) | 752 ISK |
| Cappuccino | 434.09 ISK |
| Pepsi/Coke (0.33 bottle) | 296.3 ISK |
| Water (0.33 bottle) | 220.34 ISK |
| Milk (1l) | 118.59 ISK |
| Fresh bread (500g) | 299.03 ISK |
| White Rice (1kg) | 349.09 ISK |
| Eggs (12) | 506.56 ISK |
| Local Cheese (1kg) | 0.97 ISK |
| Chicken Breast (1kg) | 1.8 ISK |
| Apples (1kg) | 401.41 ISK |
| Oranges (1kg) | 271.12 ISK |
| Tomato (1kg) | 513.28 ISK |
| Potato (1kg) | 237.11 ISK |
| Lettuce (1 head) | 362.75 ISK |
| Water (1.5l) | 234.58 ISK |
| Bottle of Wine (Mid-Range) | 1.98 ISK |
| Domestic Beer (0.5 bottle) | 299.82 ISK |
| Foreign beer (0.33 bottle) | 299.33 ISK |
| Cigarettes | 0.94 ISK |
| One way local bus ticket | 386.75 ISK |
| Monthly pass for bus | 8.37 ISK |
| Taxi start | 620.4 ISK |
| Taxi 1km | 242.6 ISK |
| Taxi 1hour waiting | 5.52 ISK |
| Gasoline (1 liter) | 240.61 ISK |
| Utilities for a "normal" apartment | 13.3 ISK |
| Tennis Court Rent (1 Hour on Weekend) | 3.32 ISK |
| Apartment (1 bedroom) in City Centre | 145.46 ISK |
| Apartment (1 bedroom) Outside of Centre | 109 ISK |
| Apartment (3 bedrooms) in City Centre | 192.7 ISK |
| Apartment (3 bedrooms) Outside of Centre | 180.73 ISK |
